How to Make Hair Conditioner From Scratch

In this post I am going to show you how to make a beginner hair conditioner from scratch. The first time I made conditioner I was pretty intimidated.
My best advice for someone who is new to making conditioner, is to just to do it. It sounds a lot harder than it actually is. Once you get the basics down on how to make conditioner, we can add new ingredients to enhance the recipe.
And if you have made lotion, you can make conditioner. The steps for making condition are very similar to the steps that we use to make lotion.

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When making a conditioner, you have 3 phases: The Oil Phase, Water Phase and Cool Down phase.

Oil Phase

BTMS 50

BTMS 50 is a conditioning emulsifying wax that is often used in hair conditioners. It is a cationic (positively charged) emulsifying wax; this positive charge gives this ingredient the conditioning abilities, because it creates a fine layer over your hair.

You will notice that when you get BTMS 50 it has a distinct scent, don’t worry it will not show up in the conditioner when used at 5%.

Cetyl alcohol

Cetyl alcohol at room temperature is a waxy white flake. This acts as an emulsifier and leaves hair feeling soft. It is a surfactant that helps to wet your hair by reducing the surface tension of water.

Coconut oil

I love coconut oil in conditioner because it is filled with saturated fats. These fats are able to penetrate your hair and replenish the lost moisture. Specifically, the medium chain fatty acids can, because they have a low molecule weight and a straight chained structure.

Olive Oil

Olive oil is one of my go to oils, seriously is there anything this oil is not good in? I love it for the shine and because it helps minimize frizz in hair.

Water Phase

Distilled Water

Anytime that you are using water in your recipes, you want to make sure that you are using distilled water. The reason you want to do this is because all water is not created equal. By using distilled water, you will have a consistent product at all times.

Vegetable Glycerin

Vegetable glycerin is one of my staple ingredients. It is a humectant, which means that it draws moisture from the air to it. Learn more about humectants here.

Cool Down Phase

Preservative

Optiphen Plus is the preservative that I used in this conditioner. Anytime you are using water in a recipe, you have to use a broad spectrum preservative. The use rates can vary and you should always use the rate as suggested by the manufacturer.

Fragrance: You can use any fragrance oil or essential oil that you would like for this hair conditioner recipe.

Sizing the pump lid

When you are using a pump lid, you will need to cut it to fit your container. The easiest way to do this is to put the pump lid beside your container. Then mark the bottom of the container on the lid and cut it. It is better to cut it a little longer than you will need and re-cut if need be.

Print Recipe

Beginner Hair Conditioner Recipe

Learn how to make conditioner right at home with just a few ingredients. Includes a step by step tutorial, video and recipe.

Prep Time10 minutes mins

Cook Time20 minutes mins

Total Time30 minutes mins

Keyword: conditioner

Servings: 1 oz

Cost: $5

Equipment

• Spatula
• Double boiler
• Infrared thermometer
• Stick (immersion) blender
• Ph meter or sticks
• Container for mixing

Ingredients

Oil Phase

• 0.40 ounce | 5% BTMS 50 
• 0.40 ounce | 5% Cetyl Alcohol
• 0.16 ounce | 2% Coconut Oil
• 0.64 ounce | 8% Olive Oil

Water Phase

• 5.92 ounce | 74% Distilled Water
• 0.24 ounce | 3% Vegetable Glycerin

Cool Down Phase

• 0.16 ounce | 2% Fragrance Oil
• 0.08 ounce | 1% Optiphen Plus

Instructions

• Weight the water phase ingredients into a heat safe container.
• In another heat safe container, weight your oil phase ingredients.
• Heat both in a double boiler until the oil phase ingredients are melted. I will normally heat both the water and the oil phase at the same time, in a pan with a silicone mat on the bottom. This way, the two phases are heated to about the same temperature.
• After the oil phase is melted, pour both the water and the oil phase ingredients into a mixing container.
• Mix well with the stick blender. You will want to keep mixing in bursts, until the temperature drops to 120°F.
• Add your fragrance oil and preservative. Then stick blend to combine.
• Place the conditioner into containers. This can be done by placing the mixture into a plastic baggie and cutting one corner. Then you can easily pipe it into the container.